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Trees, Bushes, and grass frozen with layers of hoarfrost are great motives. Landscape photographers love these meteorological phenomena because they create fantastic, enchanted landscapes. True magic Winter Wonderland.
On January 1, 2025, such extraordinary scenery could be explored in an Alpine Valley close to the famous Ettal-monastery in Bavaria.
The Graswang Valley is always a spectacular spot for photographers and filmmakers. It begins with a grand rocky mountains-like scenery and a road leads to one of the fairytale-king Ludwig II’s beloved castles, Linderhof.
It’s no wonder the region has a reputation as a romantic fairytale country that also inspired artists. It is in midst of the nature park Ammergauer Alps. Here is the highly recommended website for further informations: https://www.ammergauer-alpen.de/
But some days make it even more fascinating and let us forget our modern rational world even if a lot of traffic due to tourism is never far away.
Weather plays a huge part in this.
Around Christmas and New Year 2025, Middle Europe and Southern Germany were under a long-lasting high-pressure system and a so-called inversion layer. This means that temperatures on top of mountains were higher and temperatures in valleys or lower parts of the country remained low. These inversion layers in Winter lead to a lot of fog.
The fog is very different: It can be more like clouds when there is high fog (low stratus). Mountain highs are often above this fog and from atop the fog it looks like a sea of fog. Or it is a grey cloud cover if you are in a valley. Sometimes there are sheets of ground fog with limited sight or constant changes with a milky sun breaking through the fog over midday.
Wet areas like bog or stream valleys often create their own microclimate with fog. In the Graswang valley, there is not only the Ammer but a number of springs and lots of smaller streams coming from the mountains and wetlands – perfect conditions for fog and hoarfrost.
But why do these layers of ice-crystals around trees and branches so thick?
One possibility:
Fog creates its special sort of hoarfrost which is in German called “Raueis”, ROUGH ICE. It is a bit different than the original hoar frost.
Rough Ice emerges when fog freezes. Fog consists of very small water droplets. If these droplets come in contact with colder surfaces rough ice is created whereas hoar frost is a frozen precipitation of water vapor in ice form.
Rough Ice and rime are hexagonal crystals of frozen water. The bond between hydrogen and oxygen creates this hexagonal shape, which is transparent but appears white due to the diffuse reflection.
This makes hoar frost and rough ice so fascinating for photographers. Combined with some snow and stable cold weather conditions which add more and more ice crystals we can experience these magical landscapes.
If you want to take such pictures it’s good to follow weather reports – and often be there in the morning. The sun usually melts the ice on the trees quickly.
Topography
One of the special circumstances here in the valley is that during winter the sun never reaches the bottom of the valley in some parts. So, if you look for these types of scenery a valley or gorge with a stream where in Winter the shadow of the mountains is there all day is a good option. The valley runs from the West to the East and has openings here to the East which affects airflow too.
Cold temperatures and shadow all day on the Southern side of the valley.
Great motives in the neighbourhood: Ettal Abbey
Always worth a visit. The Ettal Abbey is close to the Graswang valley. The Ettal Abbey was found in 1330. Today 50 monks live in the Benedictine monastery. The impressive building is a baroque rebuilding after the original building was destroyed. On the other side the road through the Graswang valley leads to the famous Linderhof Castle, the German austrian border and the Plansee, a long alpine lake.
DIRECTIONS
The Graswang Valley is accessible from Garmisch Partenkirchen, from Oberammergau and from Reutte, Tyrol.
Trains stop in Garmisch Partenkirchen and Oberammergau. From Oberammergau there is a bus, Line 9622. During summer a special attraction is the “Ringbus” a special bus for tourists and hikers starting in Oberau.
Every mountain peak in the Alps is a great experience. But here is one that makes you feel like watching the green pastures of the countryside in front of the Alps from a seat on an airplane.
The Hoernle Mountain, which actually consists of three mountain peaks of different heights, sits at the beginning of the Ammergauer Mountains mountain range. It’s close to Bad Kohlgrub, a well-known Bavarian holiday destination and spa. From here, a steep path leads up to the mountain.
There is a fantastic panoramic viewpoint on top near the chairlift station. It’s special because there is nothing on the west, north, or east sides. Only on the south side and south-west are higher mountains. That little peak near the station and the cozy Hörnle cabin has been called Zeitberg since 2013.
The other Hörnle peaks require some walking, but that little peak already provides a unique experience. They call it a “nature 3d cinema”. Wooden banks invite you to stay. It is indeed a cinema in nature. It provides great opportunities for photographers and videographers.
You can see a couple of lakes from the mountaintop. To the northeast, there is Lake Staffelsee, a famous lake near Murnau where lots of artists live and where famous painters such as Gabriele Münter lived.
Another lake in the north is Starnberger See, the second largest lake in Bavaria. Between the lake and the mountains, there are villages, hills, and woodland. It’s good to have a day with some clouds which create an interplay of light and shadow. This adds to the impression of depth in landscape photography.
In the lower half of the picture is Bad Kohlgrub. A destination is known for its mud bath. The suspension railway starts from here. It is also the train stop for the train coming from Murnau, which heads then to Oberammergau.
The mountain path is steep but a great experience. Normally everyone can do it. But if you have problems walking down a steep path consider the suspension railway as an alternative.
A unique sight from the mountaintop is the chain of the Ammergauer Alps. This is a nature park and some areas resemble a wilderness, but it is also where the famous Linderhof castle is located. The Ammergauer Alps offer a lot of great experiences as the Grinding Mill Gorge (Schleifmühlenklamm).
What impressed me most on the mountaintop was the big sky. Yes, this is a cinema of nature. It’s fantastic to watch the clouds moving and constantly changing.
At the bottom of the picture above is the “Hörnle Schwebebahn”, an attraction itself. It’s called a suspension railway with a Double swivel chair. This is a unique construction like nowhere else: When you reach your destination you don’t need to jump away to avoid being hit by the chair like other chairlifts. The chairs rotate 90 degrees and you can walk away. The chairlift went into operation in 1954 and brought tourists within 20 minutes to the mountain top and the Hörnle-Cabin til today. It operates both in winter and in summer but check before if you plan your trip here.
The Hoerlen suspension railway is approximately a 25-minute walk from the train station Bad Kohlgrub. From Munich or Augsburg, you take the train to Murnau and change for the train to Oberammergau. The ride with the train is a great experience itself.
I strongly recommend checking weather conditions before: If it is rainy the steep path might be slippery and be careful if there is snow. There is a so-called “Winter path” but due to the steepness, I would be careful with that if you are not an experienced hiker.
On the evening of Friday, May 10, 2024, a dream for many people came true. Seeing the aurora borealis, the mysterious Northern Lights. An extraordinary solar event made it possible. Northern Lights appeared not only in Northern Latitudes but in many places from San Francisco to Italy to Lviv.
The reason was the most intense solar storm in decades. A barrage of CMES (Coronal Mass Ejections) and Solar Flares launched clouds of charged particles and magnetic fields toward Earth. This led to the strongest solar storm within the last two decades and probably created one of the strongest displays of aurora borealis in the past 500 years according to NASA. https://science.nasa.gov/science-research/heliophysics/how-nasa-tracked-the-most-intense-solar-storm-in-decades/
NASA said this storm was so strong it was only paralleled by famous events in 1958 and 2003. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s Space Weather Prediction Center warned about the upcoming storm because solar storms can seriously affect satellites, and power grids and endanger the health of astronauts. However, unlike the Carrington Event (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrington_Event), no serious outages or damages were reported.
Therefore this epic geo-storm became an event for enthusiastic nature lovers, scientists, photographers, and filmmakers. Since mobile phones are more light-sensitive they show the aurora borealis better than the naked eye. Furthermore, pictures with mobile phones and posted on social media showed us the broad variety of the ever-changing otherworldly Northern Lights.
There also is scientific value to this. The extraordinary event produced for scientists highly valuable material they will now study for years. NASA is collecting the pictures taken by enthusiasts around the globe for research (https://aurorasaurus.org/).
The storm reached the highest level G5 and happened in the midst of the most activity during the 11-year cycle of the sun. Astronomers have also been following huge sunspots for months now.
How to know if Aurora Borealis is happening?
The extraordinary G5 event triggered the interest of many. People who missed the Northern Lights would love to see them. One way to keep informed is to check the Space Weather Forecast and its Aurora 30-minute forecast ( https://www.swpc.noaa.gov/products/aurora-30-minute-forecast) It might be necessary to do some research to properly understand the page, but there are numerous YT videos about aurora borealis out there. Please don’t compare it too much with the weather forecast. Compared to meteorology space weather forecast is relatively new and there are limited measurement instruments out there. Scientists are still learning. Thus the first thing we need to learn is a lot of patience. I also recommend reading astronomer forums on social media regularly But how do you know an aurora borealis is happening at your place? Is it worth driving or walking in the middle of the night? I can only tell what I did: When I learned about the possibility I checked a photo-webcam side every 10 minutes on my computer. I detected the aurora borealis first on the Zugspitze-Webcam in Bavaria. You might want to watch out for webcams looking towards the North. Because in the Northern Hemisphere, you usually see them in the Northern sky and vice versa in the Southern Hemisphere.
What are the conditions for watching the Northern Lights?
Of course, it has to be dark. Not completely but you need a dark sky. May 10 was great because the moon was there but no half- or full-moon. And you need a mostly clear sky. There are also good opportunities for even very creative and impressive pictures with some clouds or a thunderstorm. But the Northern Lights don’t shine through clouds. Fog or dust doesn’t work. A veiled sky with a strato nimbus cloudscape doesn’t work.
Where to watch the Northern Lights?
People make expensive trips to Norway to watch the Northern Skies. This is not the issue here. What can you do to see the Northern Skies if they appear in your place? First of all: find a dark place. These mobile phone pictures let the Northern Lights appear brighter as they are. Nearly everyone uses long exposure times. But it is a great experience to see them with the naked eye in the first place. It is possible to see the Northern Lights in big cities, I saw the first time a red Northern Light in the middle of Berlin in 2000. But as darker as better. A field, a mountain, or a coastline is great (it is not necessary to get to a higher elevation, but of course, conditions are often better because the air is cleaner with less dust). If you go out to the countryside a flashlight is important. Astronomers often use a red filter in front of the light, because the eyes need to adapt to darkness to see better and red light is less disturbing. Take your time to adapt to the situation. The other thing really important is a free horizon, particularly a free Northern horizon. If you have a lake nearby – perfect! Go to the south end of the lake and look to the north.
How to photograph the Northern Lights?
There are countless tutorials out there and if you are fine with the quality of mobile phone pictures it’s quite easy. Of course, a tripod or a stable position is an important prerequisite.
I don’t have a manual or guidelines, but the most important question is knowing what you want. Do you want realistic pictures or a more artistic, impressive, maybe even psychedelic impression? Do you want just to have the Northern Lights in the frame or an interesting foreground, a special composition? The possibilities are endless.
If you head for better quality a bigger camera is good to have. In an ideal case use a fast lens. I used aperture 2,8 to 4. Of course ramp ISO up but it’s not necessary to max it out. The Northern Lights are often strong enough and you can avoid unnecessary noise. I heard exposure times of 20-20” seconds are recommended. I did shorter (at the cost of having some noise in my image) but it depends. Remember that if you do exposure times longer than 30 seconds the stars or the moon become stripes due to Earth’s rotation. I did shorter.
What’s important is to be aware of Focus: Auto Focus in some cameras doesn’t work properly in darkness! I set the focal length close to infinite, after some unsharp pictures.
One really important setting is to shoot in RAW if possible:
There is an interesting thing about Northern Lights: White Balance. Some people say around 4000 K but I found that the Aurora Borealis is a unique light source. If you shoot in RAW you can play with White Balance, Hue, and Saturation in post-production and get the best results. I encourage you to do this and unlock the full potential of pictures.
One last tip: As the Aurora Borealis often appears fast and is constantly changing preparation of the right settings is good and do as many pictures as you can. There is a lot of variety here. The slide show shows different facets of the May 10 storm:
